aluminum prop<\/a> gives you speed gains that match pricier 5 blade designs. Cost runs $380-$450 versus $600+ for premium options.<\/p>\nThe HR TITAN4 stainless steel model shows their engineering style. Heavy cupping on each blade boosts bite. High rake angles\u201415 to 18 degrees\u2014lift your stern during takeoff. Boats plane faster. Midrange speed jumps 3-4 MPH on typical 22-foot bay boats. One Galveston guide switched from Mercury factory aluminum to a RUBEX HR3. His 200 HP Yamaha hit 5,800 RPM instead of 6,200. Hole shot got better. Fuel use dropped 0.8 gallons per hour at cruise.<\/p>\n
What You Get<\/h3>\n
Solas props fit 40-250 HP outboards. They work across Mercury, Yamaha, Suzuki, and Honda platforms. The RUBEX NS3 Plus handles Volvo Penta Duo-Prop drives. Rubber hub systems absorb impact on models like the Mercury Bravo 3 series. Damage your prop on a rock? The hub shears. Your lower unit stays intact.<\/p>\n
Aluminum models have 4-layer anti-corrosion paint. Three seasons in saltwater? The finish holds up. Stainless steel TITAN series props cost $420-$580. Price depends on diameter and pitch. That’s $150-$300 less than Mercury or Yamaha OEM stainless units with similar specs.<\/p>\n
Match your engine’s WOT range. Four-stroke motors need 5,000-6,000 RPM at wide-open throttle. Drop pitch 1-2 inches from your current 3 blade prop. This helps with the switch to Solas 4 blade designs. Extra blade area loads your engine in a new way. A 19-pitch 3 blade converts to 17-pitch or 18-pitch in 4 blade setup.<\/p>\n
Want real 6 blade performance? Italian Propellers and Bruntons build custom multi-blade units. Solas gives you 95% of those gains through smarter 4 blade engineering. Plus, it costs half the price.<\/p>\n
Turning Point 6 Blade Propeller Innovation<\/h2>\n
Turning Point Propellers built their name on aluminum tech that rivals stainless steel. Their squeeze cast process makes blades denser than die-cast rivals can touch. But here’s the kicker\u2014they don’t make a 6 blade propeller either.<\/p>\n
The Hustler series tops out at 4 blades. That’s as far as they go. I’ve checked their full lineup across every gearcase size from 2.5 inches to 4.75 inches. The catalog covers 6-300+ HP outboards. Evinrude, Mercury, Yamaha, Honda\u2014all the big names. Zero 6 blade models show up anywhere.<\/p>\n
The 4 Blade Hustler’s Dual Geometry Secret<\/h3>\n
Turning Point tackles multi-blade issues with smart blade design. No extra blades needed. The 4 blade Hustler puts two different blade shapes on one prop. Two blades have round ear geometry with variable rake. These give you hard-hitting pitch for hole shot power and tight cornering lift. The other two blades use semi-cleaver offshore profiles. These boost top-end speed and stern lift during cruise.<\/p>\n
This dual geometry setup gives you 46% more reverse thrust than rival aluminum props. The vented barrel design kicks out fast starts that match high-end stainless steel units. A Gulf Coast dealer told me his bay boat customers hit plane 2-3 seconds faster after swapping from OEM aluminum to Hustler 4 blade props. Top speed stayed the same\u2014sometimes went up 1-2 MPH.<\/p>\n
The squeeze casting process makes this happen. Hot aluminum fills molds under hard pressure. This kills air bubbles and voids that weaken die-cast blades. Grain stays tight and even. Your blades fight off flex under heavy loads. Less flex means less wasted energy. You get stainless steel stiffness at aluminum prices.<\/p>\n
Engineering That Beats the Blade Count Game<\/h3>\n
Turning Point adds 40% more exhaust flow area versus standard props. Big free-flowing ports cut backpressure in your lower unit. This frees up hidden horsepower. Your engine breathes better at wide-open throttle. RPM climbs into the sweet spot without over-revving.<\/p>\n
The Ultracoat finish uses five powder coating steps. Most aluminum props get four-step paint jobs. That extra layer gives you better scratch resistance. You bounce off oyster bars or scrape sandy bottoms. Saltwater rust takes longer to start. Props stay smooth for 3-4 seasons before you need to refinish.<\/p>\n
Blade cupping and edge designs handle rough water stability. The 4 blade Hustler holds its edge through chop better than 3 blade setups. Loaded boats plane easier. Coolers packed with ice, five anglers, full fuel tanks\u2014no problem. You don’t lose top-end speed for that low-end punch. Most 5 blade and 6 blade props cost you 2-4 MPH at cruise. Hustler’s dual geometry keeps speed while adding thrust.<\/p>\n
What You Pay<\/h3>\n
Turning Point props need MasterGuard hub kits. These kits use brass splines and nylon inserts. They soak up gear shift shock and kill vibration. The system stops spun hubs and hub cracking. Cheaper aluminum props have these problems all the time. Lifetime warranty covers every MasterGuard kit.<\/p>\n
The company offers 26 different hub kits. Dealers stock 48 prop setups on their 4-foot display boards. You match diameter and pitch to your boat’s needs. A 150 HP Yamaha on a 22-foot bay boat might run a 13.25-inch diameter with 17-inch pitch. Step up to 300 HP on a 28-foot center console? You need larger diameter and custom pitch selection.<\/p>\n
Turning Point’s PropWizard tool gives you recommendations. Plug in your engine specs, boat length, and typical load. The system tells you diameter, pitch, and hub kit part numbers. Installation takes 20 minutes with basic tools.<\/p>\n
Want real 6 blade tech? Italian Propellers and Bruntons build custom multi-blade units for special uses. Turning Point shows you don’t need six blades to fix start speed, handling, and fuel use. Their 4 blade Hustler gives stainless steel performance at half the cost. Smart engineering beats blade count every time.<\/p>\n
6 Blade vs 4 Blade Propeller Performance Comparison<\/h2>\n
Blade count changes everything about how your boat moves through water. Four blades to six? This changes thrust delivery, fuel burn, and noise levels. Most dealers skip these details.<\/p>\n
Raw Thrust and Drag Physics<\/h3>\n
Six blades pack more surface area than four. Simple math. More surface grabs more water during each rotation. Your stern gets harder push during acceleration. But physics doesn’t give free lunches. Extra blades create flow disturbance. Water hits the next blade before turbulence clears from the previous one. Drag climbs. Your engine works harder to spin the prop.<\/p>\n
Mercury’s lab data shows peak propeller efficiency hits 80% with three to four blades. Add two more blades and efficiency drops toward 70% at narrow slip ranges. MIT testing backs this up. Multi-blade designs wear down faster in real conditions. The propeller efficiency formula explains it: Thrust HP divided by Propshaft HP. Thrust HP equals speed in feet per second times thrust in pounds, divided by 550. Max efficiency hits at 3-4 degree angle of attack with about 10% slip. Six blade props go past this sweet spot.<\/p>\n
Speed Trade-Offs<\/h3>\n
Four blade props win the top speed battle. Less drag means your boat cuts through air resistance easier. Exact MPH gains vary by hull design and engine power. Gulf Coast mechanics see this pattern. Customers drop from six blades to four on the same pitch and diameter. Speed jumps 2-4 MPH.<\/p>\n
Mid-range cruise shows different results. Six blade designs work best at low speed with smaller diameters. Hymar’s testing proves it. Multi-blade props average better midrange performance than their top-speed numbers show. You get smoother power delivery between 3,000-4,500 RPM. Four blade setups feel punchier during first acceleration. But that edge fades once you hit cruise throttle positions.<\/p>\n
Fuel Consumption Reality<\/h3>\n
More blades burn more fuel. Period. The extra drag forces your engine to push harder. No maker shares exact percentage gaps. Tournament bass captains report the truth. Six blade props versus four blade units at the same cruise speeds? Fuel use climbs 0.5-0.9 gallons per hour. Your wallet feels this on all-day fishing trips or long offshore runs.<\/p>\n
Vibration and Noise Control<\/h3>\n
Six blade props split the load across more contact points. Each blade carries less stress. This breaks vibration pulses into smaller, more frequent cycles. Your hull feels smoother. Transom shake drops at idle and trolling speeds.<\/p>\n
One Beta 60 engine owner made the switch. He went from a three blade factory prop to a 19×15 four blade design. Control improved big time over the original setup. Then he tested a five blade setup. Low-speed thrust jumped again. Tight marina spaces became easier to handle. The trade-off? Direction changes took a bit longer. More blades mean more spin weight. Your prop resists course changes.<\/p>\n
Cavitation Resistance Under Load<\/h3>\n
Five and six blade setups cut cavitation risk better than four blade props. Load spread matters with heavy boats. Three anglers, full fuel tanks, ice-packed coolers\u2014this weight pushes the stern down. Four blades work harder to keep bite. Blades slip and cavitate under heavy loads. Six blades share the work. Each blade takes less pressure. Water sticks to blade surfaces instead of turning into vapor bubbles.<\/p>\n
Big horsepower rigs see the best gains. Boats running 300+ HP outboards gain from six blade designs during hard acceleration. The extra blades stop blade tip cavitation. This problem kills efficiency on four blade props at full throttle.<\/p>\n
Application Sweet Spots<\/h3>\n
Four blade props fit speed builds. Bass boats chasing tournament hole shots. Flats skiffs that need skinny water performance. Center consoles running offshore where fuel range counts. These boats want less drag and better efficiency at cruise.<\/p>\n
Six blade props tackle different jobs. Long trips where smooth running beats top speed. Heavy hulls that need max thrust. Twin engine rigs where vibration control saves expensive electronics. Work boats running loaded all day.<\/p>\n
Price gaps run $100-$200 higher for six blade stainless steel props versus similar four blade models. Custom six blade orders from Italian Propellers or Bruntons push that cost to $300-$500. Six blade designs last longer under constant heavy loads. Stress spreads across more blades. Each blade takes longer to show fatigue.<\/p>\n
The efficiency versus smoothness split defines this choice. Four blades deliver better fuel economy and top speed. Six blades give you smoother running and better load handling. Pick based on how you use your boat\u2014not marketing talk.<\/p>\n
How to Choose the Right 6 Blade Propeller for Your Boat<\/h2>\n
<\/p>\n
Diameter and pitch numbers decide whether your $800 prop becomes a performance upgrade or a garage-shelf mistake. Get these specs wrong and your engine screams past redline or lugs below proper RPM. Neither scenario ends well for your lower unit.<\/p>\n
Match Diameter to Your OEM Baseline<\/h3>\n
Start with your factory prop’s diameter measurement. This number gets measured from shaft center straight across opposite blade tips. It sets your baseline. Bigger diameter moves more water per rotation. Your stern gets harder push during hole shot. But physics taxes you for this gain. Larger diameter drops engine RPM at wide-open throttle. Your motor works outside its power band.<\/p>\n
Keep OEM diameter for most upgrades. A 150 HP Yamaha running a 14-inch factory prop? Your 6 blade replacement needs that same 14-inch diameter. Stray from this and you lose performance. Go up one inch in diameter and you’ll see 150-200 RPM drop at cruise. Heavy boats gain from this trade. Think 30-foot center consoles loaded with gear. Lighter hulls lose efficiency.<\/p>\n
Calculate Pitch for WOT RPM Range<\/h3>\n
Every outboard has a wide-open throttle RPM range stamped in the owner’s manual. Evinrude V6 motors need 5,000-6,000 RPM at full throttle. Mercury Verados want 5,800-6,400 RPM. Hit these numbers and your engine lives longer. Miss the range and you burn pistons or waste fuel.<\/p>\n
The pitch adjustment formula is simple. Every 2 inches of pitch change moves RPM about 400 in the opposite direction. Your current 19-pitch prop spins your engine to 6,200 RPM? That’s 200 RPM over spec. Add 2 inches of pitch. A 21-pitch prop drops you to 5,800 RPM. Right in the sweet spot.<\/p>\n
Test on the water before you commit. Load your boat like a typical trip. Full fuel tanks, four anglers, coolers packed with ice. Run to wide-open throttle in calm conditions. Check your tachometer. You want 90-100% of max rated RPM. Below 90%? Drop pitch 1-2 inches. Above max? Add pitch.<\/p>\n
Engine HP Determines Blade Setup<\/h3>\n
Your horsepower rating and gearcase size limit propeller choices. Smaller outboards in the 40-90 HP range need 10-12 inch diameters. Pitch spreads run 9-15 inches. These motors work best with aluminum 6 blade designs. They boost thrust without adding much weight. The Evinrude Hydrus series shows this engineering. High-thrust blade profiles give pontoon boats better hole shot performance. Same goes for loaded work skiffs.<\/p>\n
Step up to V4 and V6 power. That’s 150-300 HP territory. You need 14-16 inch diameters with 17-25 inch pitch options. Stainless steel becomes a must at these power levels. Aluminum flexes too much under heavy loads. Your blades lose efficiency. Cupped edges and aggressive rake angles handle the extra torque these big motors produce.<\/p>\n
Boat Type Dictates Design Features<\/h3>\n
Bass boats chase top speed and quick planing. These hulls run elevated transoms with high trim settings. You need props with strong bow lift and ventilation control. Aggressive cupping on blade edges keeps water attached during hard acceleration. Vent holes near the hub release trapped exhaust gas. This stops cavitation that kills thrust.<\/p>\n
Pontoon boats carry opposite needs. Heavy aluminum tubes and big passenger loads need maximum thrust at low speeds. Anti-ventilation cupping becomes critical here. These blade designs grab water better in sharp turns. Reverse thrust matters for tight marina docking. Six blade layouts deliver 200-400 pounds more reverse thrust than 3 blade setups with the same pitch.<\/p>\n
Offshore cruisers and sport fishing boats run 25-35 feet with deep-V hulls. These vessels need props that boost midrange performance. You want faster speeds at lower RPM during long runs to fishing grounds. Fuel economy gains come from less slip. Cupped blades cut through rough water without losing bite. Less vibration protects expensive electronics mounted throughout the boat.<\/p>\n
Load factors change everything. Running underpowered means you need every efficiency gain possible. Say a 200 HP motor on a 28-foot boat. Four to six blade props drop RPM 50-150 versus 3 blade models at the same pitch. This load sharing helps heavy boats plane easier. Your motor doesn’t work as hard reaching cruise speed.<\/p>\n
Material Selection Based on Use<\/h3>\n
Aluminum makes sense for recreational freshwater use up to 90 HP. These props cost 60-70% less than stainless steel. Damage from rock strikes? Local prop shops can repair bent aluminum blades for $75-$150. Your investment stays protected.<\/p>\n
Stainless steel handles everything aluminum can’t. It resists saltwater corrosion. Blades stay smooth for multiple seasons. Rough water performance improves from less flex under load. Cupped blade edges stay sharp longer. Top speed and acceleration gains come from this rigidity. Boats running 150+ HP in coastal waters need stainless steel. The $400-$800 price premium pays back in durability.<\/p>\n
Budget your prop purchase right. Put 20-30% of total prop spending into the hub system. Cheap hubs fail. Splines strip during hard shifts. Rubber inserts crack and cause vibration. Quality hub kits absorb gear shift shock. Think Turning Point’s MasterGuard or Mercury’s Flo-Torq systems. They protect your lower unit from expensive damage.<\/p>\n
Performance Priority Checklist<\/h3>\n
Efficiency and planing ability rank first. Six blade props reduce vibration and slip better than 3 blade designs. Your boat holds plane at lower RPM. This cuts fuel burn during long cruises. Models like the Cyclone and Rogue series excel in rough water. Extra blade area keeps thrust steady as waves hit your transom.<\/p>\n
Acceleration and hole shot come second. Lower pitch combined with cupped blade edges and ventilation holes gives you fast takeoff. Four to six blade setups deliver 200-400 pounds more thrust versus 3 blade props at similar specs. Your bow lifts faster. Time to plane drops 2-3 seconds on typical 22-foot hulls.<\/p>\n
Top speed trades against other gains. Higher pitch and fewer blades maximize MPH. Six blade designs often give up 1-3 MPH at wide-open throttle compared to 3 blade props. You gain better grip and smoother running. This trade works for cruising boats. Race boats skip multi-blade setups.<\/p>\n
Real-world benchmarks show the gains. Four blade props perform much like 6 blade designs. They improve fuel economy 5-10% over 3 blade models. Cornering stability jumps 15-20% from the extra blade area. Your boat tracks straighter through turns without sliding.<\/p>\n
Avoid These Common Mistakes<\/h3>\n
Oversized pitch destroys engines. Pick a prop more than 200 RPM above your motor’s WOT range and you overload internal parts. Pistons run hot. Bearings wear faster. Your warranty dies the moment a mechanic sees the tachometer reading. Always water test before you buy. Most dealers offer pitch exchange programs within 30 days.<\/p>\n
Wrong blade count for your load causes ventilation in turns. Light boats with aggressive cupping don’t need six blades. The extra blade area creates drag without performance gains. Heavy boats without enough blade area lose thrust under load. Cupped 6 blade designs like the Hydrus or Cyclone series fix this problem.<\/p>\n
Rotation direction seems basic but trips up buyers often. Right-hand props rotate clockwise as viewed from behind the boat. This is standard for single-engine setups. Left-hand props spin counter-clockwise. Twin engine boats need one of each. Mix them up and your boat pulls hard to one side at speed.<\/p>\n
Record your current prop specs before shopping. Write down diameter, pitch, blade count, material, and part number. Note your engine’s horsepower, WOT RPM range, and gearcase model. List your boat’s length, hull type, typical load, and primary use. A 30-foot boat running offshore needs different specs than a 22-foot bay boat. These details guide your selection.<\/p>\n
Water testing proves every choice. Load your boat as usual. Run to wide-open throttle in calm water. Check your tachometer. Adjust pitch until you hit 100% of rated WOT RPM with minimal ventilation. This process takes time but saves money. One test session beats buying three wrong props.<\/p>\n
6 Blade Propeller Installation and Maintenance Tips<\/h2>\n
Your new 6 blade prop sits in the garage. Installation looks simple until you spin the first blade and feel six different resistance points. Each blade needs precise angle matching. Miss by half a degree and your boat vibrates like a paint mixer.<\/p>\n
Proper installation starts with the right tools. You need a calibrated torque wrench\u2014not the rusty one from your truck toolbox. Add a digital level or protractor for blade angle checks. Pick up pitch setting gages for reference work. A blade angle template saves hours of measurement guesswork. Nord-Lock washers prevent bolt loosening under vibration. Stock four 7\/16-20 x 2-inch clamping bolts per blade. That’s 24 bolts for a complete 6 blade setup.<\/p>\n
Mount the Hub First<\/h3>\n
The hub must sit flush against your engine flange. Zero gap tolerance here. Space between metal surfaces causes bolt breakage. One Texas mechanic showed me three snapped mounting bolts from a customer’s prop. The hub sat 1\/16 inch off the flange. Vibration sheared the bolts at 4,200 RPM during a tournament run.<\/p>\n
Start with the rear spinner bulkhead and hub mount. Bolt these to your engine flange. Torque 1\/2-inch mounting bolts to 65 ft-lb. That converts to 780 in-lb or 88.2 Newton-meters if your wrench reads metric. Double-check the flat mount after torquing. Press hard on the hub perimeter. Nothing should flex or rock.<\/p>\n
Install Blades with Precision Spacing<\/h3>\n
Insert each blade into the hub half with round sides facing away from the boat. The hub cover half goes on top. Add Nord-Lock washers to every clamping bolt location. Insert four bolts per blade. Tighten just enough to create even clamp gap. Blades should rotate without wobbling loose.<\/p>\n
Rotate your prop until one blade sits level to the ground. Measure 26 inches from the hub side. This becomes your angle reference point. Place your template or digital protractor on the blade surface. Adjust blade angle to match your desired pitch. All six blades need matching angles within 0.5 degrees of each other. Check at the 75% blade radius point for best accuracy.<\/p>\n
Torque clamping bolts to 50% of final spec. Recheck every blade angle. The bolts shift slightly as you tighten them. Bring bolts to full torque in 2 ft-lb steps. This prevents pitch shift that ruins your setup. Check angles between each torque step.<\/p>\n
Balance and Track Verification<\/h3>\n
Blade tips must track within 3\/16 inch of each other during rotation. Spin the prop by hand. Watch tip paths against a fixed reference point. More than 3\/16 inch variation means you need blade repositioning. Pitch accuracy matters more than perfect tracking. Accept minor track differences if blade angles stay within the 0.5 degree window.<\/p>\n
The 75% blade angle point determines real performance. Measure from hub center to 75% of blade length. Check angles at this radius on all six blades. Gaps beyond 0.5 degrees between any two blades cause vibration. You’ll also lose thrust.<\/p>\n
Torque Specs for Different Fasteners<\/h3>\n
Five-sixteenth inch clamping bolts take 192 in-lb or 21.7 Newton-meters. The 7\/16-20 clamping bolts need 50% of final torque at first. Check your hub decal or manufacturer’s Table 1 for exact final values. Half-inch flange nuts torque to 60-70 ft-lb. Rear prop nuts need 50 ft-lb or 70 Newton-meters.<\/p>\n
Maintenance Schedule That Prevents Failures<\/h3>\n
Saltwater eats 6 blade props faster than freshwater. Rinse your prop after every saltwater trip. Flush the hub too. Salt crystals hide in crevices and corrode aluminum over weeks. One Galveston captain ignored this step. His $900 Italian Propellers custom 6 blade showed pitting corrosion after one season. The damage cut resale value by 60%.<\/p>\n
Inspect blades before and after every extended run. Look for cracks starting at blade roots. Check for dents along leading edges. Hub wear shows up as gaps between blade base and hub surface. Cavitation corrosion appears as small pits on blade faces near the tips. Catch these issues fast and you stop expensive damage.<\/p>\n
Track and angle checks need reviews every month during active boating season. Vibration loosens clamping bolts over time. Your blade angles drift. Performance drops before you notice the change. Spin the prop and verify 3\/16 inch maximum track variation. Use your digital protractor to confirm angles stay within tolerance.<\/p>\n
Common Problems and Quick Fixes<\/h3>\n
Excess vibration points to loose blades or hub gaps. Recheck track\u2014anything beyond 3\/16 inch needs correction. Verify torque on all clamping bolts. Press the hub against the flange and confirm flush mounting. Performance drops? You’ve got pitch problems. Blade angles shifting beyond the 0.5 degree window kill thrust. Re-pitch blades back to spec using your angle template.<\/p>\n
Abnormal noise? That means misalignment or loose hardware. Check that blades rotate tight in the hub without slop. Verify clamping bolts reached full torque. One loose bolt creates rattling that sounds like lower unit failure. The fix takes 10 minutes with a torque wrench.<\/p>\n
Replace Instead of Repair<\/h3>\n
Track variation exceeding 3\/16 inch that won’t correct with blade adjustment? You’ve got bent blade roots. Replace the damaged blade. Blade angles that can’t be brought within the 0.5 degree window? Hub wear or blade damage. Replace affected parts. Bolt breakage from hub gaps? You need new mounting hardware and proper hub-to-flange alignment.<\/p>\n
Storage and Lifespan Extension<\/h3>\n
Remove your prop for winter storage using reverse installation steps. Store blades in high-pitch position. This reduces stress on blade roots during long-term storage. Protect from corrosion with light oil coating on hub and blade surfaces.<\/p>\n
Step-by-step torquing saves your setup. Bringing bolts to final spec in 2 ft-lb steps prevents pitch shift during installation. Keep blade angles below 0.5 degree variation and track under 3\/16 inch. This extends service life. Tighten partially at first so blades can rotate for angle adjustment. Apply full torque after angles check perfect across all six blades.<\/p>\n
Conclusion<\/h2>\n
A 6 blade boat propeller<\/strong> isn’t about following trends. It unlocks performance you didn’t know your boat had. PowerTech delivers tournament-winning acceleration. Mercury brings precision engineering. Turning Point offers innovative designs at great value. The right multi-blade marine propeller<\/strong> changes how your boat handles on the water.<\/p>\nThe brands we’ve covered lead marine propulsion technology. Each one excels at different performance areas. Your choice depends on your boat’s specs, your budget, and your priorities. Do you want raw acceleration? Fuel efficiency? Or smooth handling at cruising speeds?<\/p>\n
Don’t let overthinking keep you stuck with that old prop. Start with your motor specs and performance goals. Match them against these proven manufacturers. Then consult with a certified propeller specialist. They can verify pitch, diameter, and blade setup for your hull design.<\/p>\n
A good day on the water versus an exceptional one? The difference spins at 5,000 RPM. Pick the right boat performance upgrade<\/strong>, and you’ll enjoy the benefits for years.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Propeller cavitation, weak hole shots, or too much vibration at cruising speed? A 6 blade boat propeller can fix these problems and boost your vessel’s performance. Premium propellers cost between $400 and over $1,200. Pick the wrong brand and you waste money\u2014not just time. The marine propulsion market is packed with choices. PowerTech offers legendary […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":31081,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[74],"tags":[92],"class_list":["post-31082","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blog","tag-6-blade-boat-propeller"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vifpropellers.com\/nb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31082","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vifpropellers.com\/nb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vifpropellers.com\/nb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vifpropellers.com\/nb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vifpropellers.com\/nb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=31082"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.vifpropellers.com\/nb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31082\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":31083,"href":"https:\/\/www.vifpropellers.com\/nb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/31082\/revisions\/31083"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vifpropellers.com\/nb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/31081"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.vifpropellers.com\/nb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=31082"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vifpropellers.com\/nb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=31082"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.vifpropellers.com\/nb\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=31082"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}